Pashkov House

The snow-white mansion on Vagankovsky Hill is one of the most beautiful architectural landmarks of the capital. The majestic building, constructed at the end of the 18th century, holds many secrets and has attracted the attention of historians, architects, and ordinary Muscovites for over two centuries.

The mysteries of construction and the first owner

The construction of the estate began in 1784 and was completed just two years later — an incredible pace for such a large-scale project of that era. The client was Pyotr Yegorovich Pashkov, a retired lieutenant captain of the Life Guards Semenovsky Regiment, the son of Peter the Great’s former orderly.

The authorship mystery

One of the main enigmas of the mansion is the name of its creator. Traditionally, the author is considered to be the outstanding architect Vasily Ivanovich Bazhenov, but there is no documentary confirmation of this. The Pashkov family archive burned down during the Moscow fire of 1812, taking with it all construction documents. The author’s style of the building indeed reveals features characteristic of Bazhenov’s works. Historians suggest that the great architect may have worked on the project secretly, while in disgrace with Empress Catherine II after the failure of the Tsaritsyno Palace construction.

Pashkov’s fortune and the vodka lease

Pyotr Pashkov significantly multiplied the wealth inherited from his father by engaging in liquor leasing — essentially acting as an intermediary between the state and the population in alcohol trade. His contemporaries called him the first vodka king of Russia. With the profits he built a luxurious estate featuring:

• Reception halls with exquisite decoration
• A picturesque garden with exotic plants
• Fountains and sculptures
• Peacocks and rare birds in aviaries

However, Pashkov did not live in the mansion for long. According to various sources, he died either four or fourteen years after its completion. There is a version that the construction nearly bankrupted him, and the house, along with debts, passed to his cousin Alexander Ilyich Pashkov.

Trial by fire and restoration

During Napoleon’s invasion in 1812, the building suffered greatly from fire. The belvedere with columns crowning the roof collapsed, the galleries between the wings burned out, and only the cast-iron staircases of Kasli casting survived from the luxurious interiors. The reconstruction of the destroyed mansion was led by the Italian architect Osip Bove. By 1818, the building was restored with some changes to its original appearance. A significant portion of the restoration funds was provided by the state treasury, as the estate was already considered one of Moscow’s architectural landmarks.

New life: from gymnasium to library

Educational institutions

In 1839, the city authorities bought the mansion from the impoverished heirs of Pashkov. The building received a new purpose — first housing the Noble Institute, later transformed into a boys’ gymnasium.

The Rumyantsev Museum

A turning point in the building’s history came in May 1862, when it became home to the Moscow Public and Rumyantsev Museums. The collection was based on:

• The holdings of Moscow University
• The library of Count Nikolai Rumyantsev moved from St. Petersburg
• Private collections of the imperial family

The museum complex included departments of manuscripts, rare books, fine arts, ethnography, numismatics, archaeology, and mineralogy. It was here that Alexander Ivanov’s grand painting “The Appearance of Christ to the People” was exhibited — a special Ivanov Pavilion was built for it. The museum’s library became a true cultural center. Its regular visitor was Leo Tolstoy, who studied ancient manuscripts while working on “War and Peace,” especially materials about Masonic rituals and traditions.

The Soviet era

In 1925, the museum exhibits were removed, leaving only the book depository — a branch of the Lenin Library. It stored the rarest manuscripts and publications banned by censorship from free circulation. The 1930s brought significant changes to the surrounding area. To widen Mokhovaya Street:

1. The estate’s historic fence was demolished
2. The old garden was cut down
3. Architect Vitaly Dolganov designed a monumental white staircase
4. The Pashkov family coat of arms was replaced with the Soviet hammer and sickle

Architectural features of the neoclassical masterpiece

Composition of the ensemble

The estate represents a harmonious architectural complex consisting of a central three-story building and two side wings connected by galleries. All elements are aligned parallel to the Kremlin wall, visually increasing the building’s scale and giving it a special grandeur.

Classical decorative elements

The facades are adorned with features typical of classicism:

• Porticos with colonnades reminiscent of ancient Greek temples
• Mascarons in the form of lion heads above the first-floor windows
• Rusticated stone cladding of the ground floor
• Female statues on both sides of the porticos symbolizing enlightenment and art
• Floral motifs in the frieze decorated with caduceus images

An architectural trick

An interesting feature of the central portico: the base was designed for six columns, but only four were installed, with the two outer ones replaced by sculptures. This technique creates an effect of lightness and elegance despite the modest facade decoration.

The crown of the composition

The roof of the main building is crowned by a round belvedere — a distinctive detail that makes the mansion’s silhouette recognizable and unique. According to 18th-century depictions, it was once topped by a majestic statue representing, depending on the version, either the goddess Minerva or the god Mars.

Unusual orientation

A romantic legend claims that the offended Bazhenov turned the building’s back to the Kremlin in revenge against the Empress. However, there is a practical explanation: the main entrance was placed on Starovagankovsky Lane, as the ascent from Mokhovaya Street was too steep for horse-drawn transport. The southern slopes were used to lay out a picturesque garden overlooking the Moskva River.

Interiors and modern use

What remains from the past

Almost nothing of the original 18th-century interior decoration has survived — the 1812 fire and numerous reconstructions changed the interior beyond recognition. However, several elements have endured through the centuries:

• The cast-iron staircase of Kasli casting in the side wing
• A black jasper bowl in the corridor
• A marble statue of a reading girl by Italian sculptor Pietro Magni
• The bronze sculpture “Salome” (1902) by Yekaterina Beklemisheva

The Rumyantsev Hall

One of the most beautiful reading rooms of the library preserves the atmosphere of a classical book sanctuary. The tables are covered with green cloth, the shelves made of dark wood, and the supports decorated with lion faces and paws — symbols of Freemasonry. Here is located the manuscripts department with a collection of about 600,000 written sources, including Mikhail Bulgakov’s archive and 7th-century documents.

The Music and Sound Recordings Department

This rich collection includes 35,000 sound recordings on various media — from vinyl records to digital formats. It contains musical performances, political speeches, samples of folklore, and even birds’ voices. The sheet music collection numbers around 400,000 editions, including 16th-century scores with autographs by Prokofiev, Tchaikovsky, and Rimsky-Korsakov.

The Cartographic Department

This collection originates from Count Nikolai Rumyantsev’s holdings. Today, visitors can see antique globes, atlases of various formats, and maps dating back to the early 16th century.

State Rooms

The Grand (Ballroom) Hall with Empire-style stucco, columns, and a stylized chandelier is used for ceremonial events. The windows face the Kremlin, offering an impressive panorama. The cultural and historical center hosts book presentations, literary award ceremonies, international conferences, and the famous annual Easter Ball.

Legends and mystical stories

The secrets of Vagankovsky Hill

The hill on which the mansion stands is shrouded in mystery. According to legend, hidden beneath it are:

• The Library of Ivan the Terrible (Liberia) — the legendary collection of ancient manuscripts
• Underground passages to the Moscow princes’ casemates
• Secret galleries of underground Moscow
• Hidden tunnels to the Kremlin

During construction work in the courtyard, ancient human remains were repeatedly found, supporting the version of ancient burials on the hill.

Masonic traces

There is a persistent belief about Bazhenov’s Masonic affiliation and the mansion’s use for secret lodge meetings. Indirect evidence includes:

• Lion mascarons above windows — a Masonic symbol of power, nobility, and courage
• Lion decorations in the interiors of the Rumyantsev Hall
• Caducei in the facade décor — a symbol of commercial luck
• Bazhenov’s disgrace under Catherine II, who feared Masonic influence

Literary connections

In his novel “The Master and Margarita”, Mikhail Bulgakov sent Woland to admire sunset Moscow precisely from the belvedere of the Pashkov House. Library staff tell stories of encounters with the ghost of writer and bibliographer Nikolai Rubakin, who allegedly helps visitors find the books and manuscripts they seek.

The dramatic 20th century

The 1986 catastrophe

During the construction of the Borovitskaya metro station, a technological disaster occurred: the foundation sank, and cracks appeared in the walls and floors. The facades were urgently reinforced with metal structures, and in 1989 the building was closed for a large-scale restoration that lasted fifteen years.

Revival

Funding for restoration work ceased in the mid-1990s, and the mansion was on the verge of destruction. Only in 2003 were funds found to continue the work. In 2007, the Russian State Library received the symbolic key to the revived architectural masterpiece.

How to visit the Pashkov House

Location

The mansion is located at 3/5 Vozdvizhenka Street, Building 1, in the historic center of the capital, opposite Alexander Garden.

Transport accessibility

You can get there in several ways:

• Metro station “Borovitskaya” (gray line) — right at the foot of the hill
• Station “Biblioteka Imeni Lenina” (red line) — 200 meters away
• Surface transport: buses e10, m6, m9, m11, n11 to the “Metro Biblioteka Imeni Lenina” stop

Opening hours and visiting rules

Entrance is free for holders of a Russian State Library reader card. You can obtain it:

• At the main library building (3/5 Vozdvizhenka Street) by presenting your passport
• Remotely via the “Gosuslugi” portal

Working hours:

• Monday, Wednesday, Friday: 12:00–20:00
• Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday: 10:00–18:00
• Sunday — closed
• Last Monday of the month — cleaning day

An alternative way to enter is by attending cultural events. The current schedule of concerts, exhibitions, and lectures can be found on the official website of the library.

Why you should visit

The Pashkov House is a unique monument of Russian classicism that combines architectural perfection, a rich history, and an aura of mystery. It is a place where the fates of remarkable people intertwined — from the enigmatic vodka king to the great writer Bulgakov. Today, the mansion continues to thrive as a cultural hub, remaining one of the main intellectual centers of the capital. The majestic building on Vagankovsky Hill still amazes Muscovites and visitors alike, offering a rare opportunity to see the Kremlin from above and touch the centuries-old history of Russia.