Manezhnaya Square

Manezhnaya Square occupies a special place among the capital's squares — it is not just a transport hub or a tourist center, but a territory with a rich centuries-old history. Located right by the walls of the ancient Kremlin, it remembers tsarist residences and streltsy settlements, bustling market rows and quiet monastic courtyards. The Neglinka River once flowed here, craftspeople bustled about, and today tourists stroll and large-scale city festivals take place.

Location and boundaries of the square

Manezhnaya Square is located in the very heart of the Russian capital, directly adjoining the Kremlin walls. Its boundaries are defined by landmark buildings: on one side rises the historic Manege building, which gave its name to the entire area, and on the other — the luxurious Four Seasons Hotel in the reconstructed “Moskva” building. The square also borders Mokhovaya Street and the picturesque Alexander Garden, and nearby stands the imposing State Historical Museum. Getting here couldn’t be easier: Okhotny Ryad metro station opens directly onto the square, providing convenient transport access for millions of Muscovites and visitors to the capital.

From Zaneglimenye to the tsar’s oprichnina: the ancient history of the place

An artisans’ settlement of the 13th–15th centuries

In olden times the area where the spacious square sprawls today was called Zaneglimenye, after the Neglinnaya River, which then flowed here on the surface. The river began its course in the area of today’s Tsvetnoy Boulevard and ran along the Kremlin walls, flowing into the Moskva River. As early as the thirteenth century the first Moscow suburb arose on the right bank of the Neglinnaya, inhabited mainly by artisans. By the fifteenth century Zaneglimenye had turned into a densely populated quarter with compact wooden buildings. Houses stood almost back to back, which constantly created a fire hazard. The problem was solved in a radical way by Grand Prince Ivan III: he ordered all wooden buildings within a radius of about two hundred meters from the Kremlin to be demolished, creating a protective firebreak zone.

Oprichny Dvor of Ivan the Terrible

The cleared land did not stand empty for long. In the mid-sixteenth century Tsar Ivan the Terrible took the territory along the Neglinnaya into his personal possession, dividing it into oprichnina and zemshchina. The southern part of Zaneglimenye became part of the oprichnina lands, and here in 1567 the Oprichny Dvor — the main residence of the formidable ruler — was built. The fate of the court was not an easy one: a few years later it burned down in a fire, but was restored by 1575. In addition to the tsar’s residence, a wooden Church of Moses the God-seer and three almshouses, built in 1600, appeared on the territory.

Monasteries, squares, and chapels: the 17th–19th centuries

By the mid-seventeenth century, a monastery had grown up on the basis of the Church of Moses the God-seer; it existed for more than a century — until 1765. After it was dissolved, in 1787 Moiseyevskaya Square appeared on this spot, becoming an important part of the urban landscape. In memory of the Russo–Turkish War of 1877–1878 an elegant chapel of Alexander Nevsky was erected here. Sadly, after the Revolution the Soviet authorities demolished this monument, as well as many other religious buildings in the capital.

The streltsy settlement and market rows

After the abolition of the oprichnina, the Stremyanny Streltsy Regiment and its settlement moved into the former tsar’s court. In the eighteenth century the regiment was disbanded and the buildings began to be rented out. Gradually the area, with its network of narrow lanes, turned into a huge market with numerous rows of shops and taverns. Here the Obzhorny and Meat Rows bustled, and the Fur and Rag markets operated. This was truly trading Moscow — colorful, noisy, smelling of pies and leather goods.

An era of change: from the War of 1812 to Soviet reconstruction

Rebuilding after Napoleon’s invasion

The nineteenth century brought large-scale changes. After the devastating war with Napoleon, Moscow was actively rebuilt and redesigned. Manezhnaya Square and the adjacent territories underwent major reconstruction. Part of the Neglinka River near the Kremlin wall was placed into an underground conduit, and on its site architect Osip Bove laid out the picturesque Alexander Garden in honor of the victory over the French. On the freed-up land the construction of residential houses began, as well as of the main symbol of this place — the Manege building. The Manege was built in 1817 to a design by architects Agustín de Betancourt and Auguste de Montferrand for military drill and parades. However, as early as the 1830s the building began to be used for exhibitions, balls, public festivities, and concerts.

Soviet reconstruction of the 1930s

A century after its creation, the dilapidated residential buildings by the Manege were demolished: the two-storey structures no longer matched the new look of the city center. In addition, in 1931 the grand construction of the Moscow Metro began. The first underground line from Sokolniki to Park Kultury ran right through this area. A connecting branch between what are now the Sokolnicheskaya and Filyovskaya lines was also built here. The open space in front of the southern façade of the Manege officially received the name Manezhnaya Square.

Modern history: from neglect to revival

In the mid-twentieth century Manezhka found itself neglected. Monuments were planned for the site, but in practice the spacious area near the Kremlin turned into an ordinary car park. In the 1990s the square became a venue for political rallies and protest actions. The decision to improve it was made only in 1993, when construction of the underground Okhotny Ryad shopping center began beneath the square, between the metro tunnels.

The reconstruction of the 1990s

The shopping complex opened in 1997, and above it a landscaped area was created that has largely retained its appearance to this day. The following appeared:

• granite walkways and comfortable benches for rest;
• picturesque flowerbeds;
• a complex of twelve fountains decorated with bronze sculptures by Zurab Tsereteli;
• light wells of the shopping center in the form of hemispheres.

Of special note is the central light well in the shape of a globe with rotating sections symbolizing the planet’s time zones. At its base there is a world time dial, and crowning the composition is a sculpture of Saint George the Victorious. The fountain network is designed to imitate the bed of the Neglinka River — they are located exactly where the river once flowed on the surface.

Modern attractions of the square

The Manege building

The historic building, which has suffered fires and repeated reconstructions, now serves as an exhibition space. Major city events, art exhibitions, and cultural programs are regularly held here.

Monument to Georgy Zhukov

Next to the State Historical Museum, in 1995, on the fiftieth anniversary of Victory, a majestic monument to Marshal Zhukov was unveiled. Sculptor Vyacheslav Klykov depicted the commander on horseback, trampling the banner of Nazi Germany.

The Four Seasons Hotel

The most modern building on the square is the result of the reconstruction of the legendary Soviet Hotel Moskva. A curious legend is associated with this building: supposedly in 1932 Stalin approved the project by signing a blueprint that showed two façade options — austere and decorative. Not daring to clarify the leader’s preference, the architects built an asymmetrical façade combining both variants. In 2004 the historic building was dismantled and a new one erected in its place, preserving only some features of the original.

Cultural life and major events

Manezhnaya Square has long been a traditional venue for city celebrations and festivals:

• In September large-scale events are held here to celebrate City Day, with concerts, food festivals, and entertainment programs;
• In winter the main Christmas tree is set up and New Year festivities are organized;
• At the end of January the square fills with dragons and paper lanterns in honor of the Chinese New Year;
• Performances by Russian and international stars are held regularly.

The square is also remembered for major political events. In 1991 huge rallies were held here: on 24 February up to four hundred thousand supporters of Boris Yeltsin gathered, and on 10 March between five hundred and six hundred thousand people came to a rally about the future of the USSR.

Interesting features of Manezhnaya Square

Zero Kilometer — on the ground between the City Duma building and the Historical Museum there is a marker from which the distances of all Russia’s highways are measured. According to Moscow tradition, if you toss a coin over your shoulder while standing on this marker, you are sure to return to the capital. Underground shopping center Okhotny Ryad, spread over three levels, offers a wide range of shopping opportunities. Its name refers back to the historic market rows that bustled here centuries ago. Museums — on and around the square are the State Historical Museum, the Museum of Archaeology of Moscow, and the Museum of the USSR, where you can immerse yourself in different eras of Russian history.

Practical information for visitors

How to get there

• By metro: Okhotny Ryad (Sokolnicheskaya Line), Teatralnaya (Zamoskvoretskaya), and Ploshchad Revolyutsii (Arbatsko–Pokrovskaya). Also nearby are Aleksandrovsky Sad, Arbatskaya, Biblioteka Imeni Lenina, and Borovitskaya stations;
• By bus: stops Metro Okhotny Ryad on Tverskaya Street, Mokhovaya Street on Bolshaya Nikitskaya, and Manezhnaya Ploshchad on Mokhovaya;
• By car: access from Mokhovaya Street, underground parking at the Okhotny Ryad shopping center.

When to visit

The square is open around the clock and is attractive at any time of year. It looks especially impressive in the evening and at night thanks to the beautiful lighting of the fountains and buildings. In winter Christmas markets are held here, in autumn there are festivals, and in summer it is pleasant to stroll by the fountains.

What to see nearby

Manezhnaya Square is surrounded by Moscow’s main attractions:

• Red Square and the Kremlin are literally a stone’s throw away;
• Saint Basil’s Cathedral and GUM are a five-minute walk away;
• Alexander Garden adjoins the square;
• Tverskaya Street is about a twenty-minute walk;
• Old Arbat is about twenty-five minutes on foot.

Conclusion

Manezhnaya Square is a living textbook of Moscow’s history, where every stone remembers the events of centuries past. From tsarist residences and streltsy settlements to modern shopping centers and festive celebrations — this place has undergone an astonishing transformation. Today Manezhka is a harmonious blend of historical heritage and modern urban environment. Here you can not only enjoy architectural beauty and visit museums, but also simply relax by the fountains, watching the flow of Moscow life in the very heart of the capital. A visit to Manezhnaya Square is best combined with a tour of the Kremlin and a walk through Alexander Garden to fully feel the atmosphere of Moscow’s historic center and learn the fascinating stories preserved in these ancient places.