Sandunov Baths (Sanduny) are not just a place for bathing rituals, but a true gem of Moscow architecture with over two centuries of history. Located in the very heart of the capital on Neglinnaya Street, they represent a unique combination of luxurious interiors, advanced technologies, and carefully preserved traditions of Russian bath culture.
The Romantic Story Behind the Creation of the Legendary Baths
The origin of the Sandunov Baths is shrouded in romance and connected with the names of court actors from the Imperial Theatre.
Sila Sandunov, a Georgian-born comedic actor, and
Elizaveta Uranova, a talented mezzo-soprano singer, became the center of one of the most talked-about love stories of Catherine the Great’s era.
The Empress’s Wedding Gift
The young actress caught the attention of the influential Count Bezborodko, whose persistent courtship interfered with her marriage to her beloved. The brave Elizaveta appealed directly to Empress Catherine II during a theatre performance at the Hermitage. The Empress not only permitted the marriage but also generously gifted the bride diamonds and personally took part in preparing the wedding.
The diamonds received from the Empress were sold, and the proceeds allowed the couple to purchase a plot of land by the Neglinnaya River. Initially, the spouses planned to build residential houses and shops, but soon changed their decision in favor of constructing public baths.
By 1808, construction was completed, and the Moscow public gained access to a bath complex with unprecedented amenities.
Sila Sandunov introduced a revolutionary innovation — for the first time in Moscow, the men’s and women’s sections were completely separated.
The Golden Age of Sanduny: The 1896 Reconstruction
The true flourishing of the baths began when they came under the ownership of
Aleksey Ganetsky, husband of Vera Firsanova. After traveling to the finest bathhouses in Europe — from Turkey to Ireland — he decided to create in Moscow a bath palace without equal.
Architectural Splendor
To bring this ambitious project to life, the renowned architect
Boris Freudenberg was invited. The work was completed by Sergey Kalugin, and on February 14, 1896, the renewed baths opened their doors to visitors. The building amazed everyone with its eclectic façade that combined elements of various styles:
- Baroque and Rococo created an atmosphere of luxury
- Gothic elements added grandeur
- Renaissance motifs emphasized sophistication
- Classicism lent strictness and nobility
Engineering Innovations
The Sandunov Baths became the standard of the bath industry thanks to advanced technical solutions. The engineering system included revolutionary technologies for its time:
- An autonomous water supply from the Moscow River and a 700-foot artesian well
- A multi-stage filtration system with American filters
- The complex’s own power station for lighting
- A sophisticated network of underground communications with canals and pipelines
Exclusive materials were brought from Europe for the finishing: Norwegian and Italian marble, English tiles, Swiss and German ceramics. The interiors were so luxurious they rivaled the décor of the finest Moscow mansions.
The Structure of the Bath Complex
Sections by Class
The Sandunov Baths were accessible to all social classes. The system of classes provided varying levels of comfort and corresponding price categories:
Common Sections:
- Peasant — from 5 to 10 kopecks, included free medical assistance
- Merchant — from 30 to 50 kopecks, moderate luxury of setting
- Noble — the highest category of comfort, became a kind of bath club
Private Rooms priced from 60 kopecks to 5 rubles included up to five rooms: a dressing room, lounge, boudoir, bath, and steam room. Up to four hundred professional bath attendants worked here.
Famous Visitors
Sanduny became a meeting place for prominent figures of Russian culture. Among its guests were:
- Alexander Pushkin — known for his exceptional endurance in the steam room
- Anton Chekhov — rented an apartment nearby and was a regular visitor
- Fyodor Shalyapin — called Sanduny “the Tsar of Baths” and admired its grandeur
- Leo Tolstoy, Sergey Rachmaninoff, Ivan Bunin — appreciated the atmosphere and quality of service
Even the Grand Dukes of the Romanov family and the military governor of Moscow, Vladimir Dolgorukov, preferred Sanduny to their own luxurious baths.
Sanduny in Modern Moscow
In 1991, the Sandunov Baths received the status of a
monument of Moscow architecture and were placed under state protection. Today, the complex continues to operate, preserving its historical traditions.
Modern Structure
The bath complex includes:
- Three men’s sections of different classes
- Two women’s sections
- Eight exclusive suites with unique interiors
- SPA center “Sanduny Vostok”
- A restaurant serving Russian, Chinese, and Uzbek cuisine
- An operating laundry
- A souvenir shop
Themed Suites
Each of the eight suites is decorated in its own original style:
- “Lukomorye” — immersion in the world of Russian fairy tales
- “Soviet” — majestic Stalinist Empire style
- “Merchant’s” — atmosphere of an old Moscow mansion
- “Kandariya” — exoticism of an Indian temple
- “Sadko” — artistic murals and wooden carvings
- “Roman” — ancient luxury
- “Kamchatka” — spirit of the distant peninsula
- “Baikal” — the blue calm of the sacred lake
Sanduny on the Silver Screen
The unique interiors of the baths have attracted the attention of outstanding directors. The legendary
Sergei Eisenstein filmed storm scenes for “Battleship Potemkin” and episodes for “Alexander Nevsky” in the Sanduny pool. The location also appeared in iconic films:
- “The Irony of Fate, or Enjoy Your Bath!”
- “Brother 2”
- “The Master and Margarita”
- “The State Counsellor”
Hours and Pricing
The complex operates daily from 08:00, with Tuesday as a cleaning day. A two-hour visit costs between 3300 and 5000 rubles depending on time and section. Admission is free for children under 7, and from 7 to 18 years old — from 1650 rubles. Room rentals range from 5500 to 27000 rubles for two hours.
Guided Tours
Every Monday at 16:00, tours are held through the Highest Men’s Section, where original historic interiors have been preserved. Duration — one and a half hours. Registration is available through travel agencies.
How to Get There
Its central location ensures easy accessibility:
- Metro station “Kuznetsky Most” — 470 meters
- Metro station “Trubnaya” — 510 meters
- Metro station “Lubyanka” — 760 meters
Interesting tradition: Since pre-revolutionary times, Moscow brides have followed a custom — for a happy married life, one must pour water from a silver basin at the Sandunov Baths before the wedding.
Cultural Heritage
The Sandunov Baths (Sanduny) are a living monument where the past seamlessly merges with the present. Here, one can still feel the atmosphere of Imperial Russia, witness the luxury of bygone times, and experience the same healing steam that once revived Pushkin and Shalyapin. Marble columns, painted frescoes, gilded stucco, and antique statues create the feeling of being in a museum — one where the exhibits are not merely preserved, but used for their original purpose.
For more than two centuries, Sanduny has remained a symbol of Russian bath culture — a place where ancestral traditions are carefully preserved and passed down to new generations. Visiting these legendary baths is not only a health ritual but also a journey through history — an opportunity to become part of a living Moscow legend.