Kitay-gorod Wall is one of the most important defensive structures of 16th-century Moscow. Throughout its long history, the fortification experienced numerous upheavals, and only fragments have survived to this day. The history of the wall's construction, destruction, and restoration reflects the complex fate of the city, where past and present are inextricably intertwined.
History of the Construction of the Kitay-gorod Wall
Over four centuries, the Kitay-gorod wall was repeatedly rebuilt, and in the first half of the 20th century, it was almost completely dismantled and at risk of being forgotten. We will explore the stages this once-significant fortification went through and how a few sections managed to survive to the present day.
16th–17th centuries: the birth of the Moscow fortress
By the beginning of the 16th century, a large settlement had formed to the east of the Kremlin wall, which required protection from regular Tatar raids on Moscow. For this purpose, under the orders of Elena Glinskaya, mother of Ivan the Terrible, the first fortifications were built in 1534: an earthen rampart and a deep moat. The following year, a stone wall was laid on the site of the rampart. The construction was overseen by the Italian-born architect Pyotr Fryazin the Younger, born Pietro Francesco Annibale.
Construction of the wall was completed in 1538. The fortifications reached a height of 8–12 meters, a width of 6 meters, and a total length of 2.5 kilometers. The wall stretched from the Arsenal Tower to the Beklemishev Tower of the Kremlin, along the bank of the Neglinnaya River. Along the Kitay-gorod fortifications, 12 towers rose.
The wall and towers were topped with wooden roofs, which frequently suffered from fires in the 16th century. The first serious destruction occurred during the Time of Troubles. In 1612, a militia led by Dmitry Pozharsky besieged Kitay-gorod, occupied by Polish invaders, surrounding it with artillery batteries. After a two-month siege, the city was taken, and many of its structures, including the walls, were destroyed. In 1680, a major repair of the Kitay-gorod wall was completed, during which two towers received stone tented tops.
18th–19th centuries: loss of defensive significance
At the beginning of the 18th century, Peter I ordered the fortifications strengthened, slightly changing the wall’s appearance. For example, narrow loopholes for hand cannons were replaced with wider gun embrasures, and earthen fortifications were built along the wall. After the capital was moved to Saint Petersburg, Moscow's fortifications lost their importance and gradually fell into disrepair. By 1765, guard patrols along the Kitay-gorod wall were even canceled due to dangerous damages.
In 1782, large-scale reconstruction of the structure began. During this, through gates were made in the Ilyinskaya Tower to replace the old passage. In the Varvarka Gate, a large arch was built to ensure free passage along the street. After this, the wall completely lost its defensive function, and numerous houses and shops began to be attached to it.
The fortification miraculously survived the 19th century: it was twice threatened with demolition, but funds were eventually allocated for repairs. During this period, additional gates—Prolomnye—were added, a chapel dedicated to St. Sergius of Radonezh was attached to the Ilyinskaya Gates, and a dormitory for monks was opened above it.
20th century: the tragedy of destruction
By the beginning of the last century, the Kitay-gorod wall was overbuilt with houses, sheds, and stalls, and in some places partially dismantled. Art historian Igor Grabar noted in 1925 the dire state of this once-mighty fortification, traces of which were completely erased in some areas.
That same year, management of abandoned monuments was transferred to the Mossovet, which soon began repairing and restoring the wall under architect Nikolai Vinogradov. Unfortunately, the plans were never realized. The wall obstructed city development, traffic, and subway construction. Alternative routes were studied for several years, but by 1932, the decision was made to demolish the monument, deemed "unnecessary architectural debris."
Demolition began in 1934 at the Ilyinskaya Gates, followed by a volunteer campaign to dismantle the section from the Vladimirskaya to Varvarskaya Gates. Part of the material was used to reinforce subway tunnels under construction in this area. Only a small fragment behind the Metropol Hotel and sections along Kitay-gorod Passage and Moskvoretskaya Embankment survived.
In 1951, during the construction of the grand Palace of the Soviets in Zaryadye, 45 meters of the wall along the embankment collapsed due to equipment vibrations. The question arose of what to do with the remaining fragments. It was proposed to preserve them, but in 1952, Stalin ordered this part of the wall removed from the list of monuments and dismantled along with towers.
Why “Kitay-gorod”
There are several theories about the origin of the name of the fortress and district. Here are the most popular.
One theory suggests that the name comes from the archaic word “kita”. In old times, “kita” referred to a special way of tying poles for fences. The original fortifications of Kitay-gorod were made of such wattle.
Some researchers believe the word “Kitay” in the toponym came from the Italian word città — "city." Architect Pyotr the Younger was Italian by birth and could have used this term. Locals adapted it into Russian.
A third theory is that the wall and district were named after Kitay-gorodok in the Podolsk voivodeship, the birthplace of Elena Glinskaya, who ordered the fortifications.
Finally, the fourth theory states that the fortress name comes from the word “kitayka”, used in Russia for any foreign fabrics. The settlement inside the Kitay-gorod wall was a busy trading area, supporting this version.
What to See Today
Almost nothing remains of the Kitay-gorod wall after nearly four centuries. Only small sections were preserved from demolition, and some were reconstructed based on records and photographs.
Original Fragments of the Wall
Historical sections of the fortification survived long years of neglect but have recently been restored and are an important part of Moscow's heritage.
Wall behind the Metropol Hotel and Bird Tower
For many years, this fragment was in poor condition: bricks fell out, and the foundation crumbled. A heating pipeline was laid along the battlement in the 20th century, frequently causing floods that affected the monument. The “cultural layer” on the Nikolskaya side eventually rose 6 meters, making this fragment a support for later Moscow buildings.
In 2018, the section ending with Bird Tower was placed under city management, and a restoration project competition was announced the next year. By summer 2023, the foundation was reinforced, masonry renewed, and “swallow tails” — battlements like those on the Kremlin walls — restored.
Wall fragments in the Zaryadye Museum
In 2017, excavations during park construction revealed a white-stone foundation, several hidden vaulted rooms, and chambers for shoe strikes. Over 150 artifacts were discovered. Today, visitors can see the wall remnants, coins, and household items in the Zaryadye Underground Museum.
Foundation of the Varvarka Tower
During construction of the Ploshchad Nogina metro station in 1970, archaeologists found the Varvarka Tower foundation, left for public viewing. Large white limestone blocks are now visible in the underground passage near exit 13.
Tretyakov Gates
Technically part of the Kitay-gorod wall, these gates appeared only in 1871. The Russian-style building with gates on Teatralny Proyezd was designed by architect Alexander Kaminsky. He decorated it with a pointed roof, towers with spires, and battlements. The gates survived the wall's demolition and were restored in the early 21st century along with Tretyakov Proyezd.
Reconstructed Fragments of the Wall
Some ancient sections were restored in the 20th century based on archaeological and historical research. Despite changes, these structures retain historical appearance.
Wall at Kitay-gorod Passage
This fragment is both original and reconstructed. Its foundation is original brickwork, but most of the structure is a skilled reconstruction. Partially dismantled by the early 1950s, it remained in ruins for a decade. During the 1960s construction of the Russia Hotel, restorer Pyotr Baranovsky defended its preservation. Between 1968–1973, Baranovsky restored and extended the wall. Visitors can now access it from Zaryadye Park for free.
Voskresensky (Iversky) Gates
Standing at the zero kilometer point of Russian roads near Red Square, these gates with an adjacent chapel were restored in 1995 by restorer Oleg Zhurin, a student of Baranovsky. In 1988, underground construction uncovered the ancient foundation, allowing reconstruction of the gates in the late 17th-century style and the chapel in the late 18th-century style.
Round Tower on Teatralnaya Square
Once housing the Ornithology Museum, this tower and its adjacent wall section were restored in 1997. The reconstructed tower differs significantly from the original seen in archival photos: it is wider, taller, and features a tented roof.
Conclusion
Kitay-gorod Wall is not only a reminder of Moscow's centuries-long history but also a vivid example of successful cultural heritage preservation. Despite significant losses, surviving and reconstructed fragments continue to attract researchers and visitors. It is recommended to explore these invaluable monuments with expert historical guides who can distinguish reconstructed sections from original ones and reveal all the secrets of Kitay-gorod.
The 16th-century defensive wall surrounding central Moscow’s Kitay-gorod is now a protected federal cultural heritage site. Although almost entirely lost, its remnants continue to tell the remarkable story of a Moscow fortress that survived centuries of wars, fires, and urban development.