Ivanovskaya Gorka

Ivanovskaya Gorka is a unique Moscow district where history meets modernity. Located in the heart of the capital, this area enchants with its atmospheric lanes, 17th-century architectural monuments, and 21st-century cultural spaces. A walk through this historic quarter reveals to visitors the authentic spirit of ancient Moscow.

Historical Heritage of the District

Origin of the Name

The area received its modern name in the 15th century thanks to the women’s Ivanovo-Predtechensky (St. John the Baptist) Convent, founded on the slope of a hill. The district is situated on one of Moscow’s seven hills, with an elevation of 150 meters above sea level. However, long before the convent appeared, these lands were already inhabited. In the 16th century, the area was surrounded by wild meadows and forests. It bordered the eastern Moscow posad (settlement) and was called Kulishki — a term used for swampy forested areas cleared for plowing.

Legends and Traditions

There is a version explaining the origin of the expression “u cherta na kulishkakh” (“in the middle of nowhere,” literally “at the devil’s kulishki”). Superstitious citizens preferred to answer evasively when asked where they were headed. A more plausible theory states that Kulishki remained outside the city limits for a long time, becoming a symbol of remote wilderness.

Geographical Boundaries

Modern Ivanovskaya Gorka is bounded by several historic arteries:

• Maroseyka and Pokrovka from the north
• Solyanka from the south
• Pokrovsky and Yauzsky Boulevards
• Lubyansky Drive

Fifteen lanes connect these streets, creating a unique network of historic routes. The hilly terrain with significant elevation changes and numerous green plantings form the unmistakable atmosphere of old Moscow.

Spiritual Heritage of the Hill

Ivanovo-Predtechensky Convent

Moscow’s oldest convent is located in Maly Ivanovsky Lane. The exact founding date remains unknown, but most researchers believe the women’s monastery appeared in the 16th century thanks to Princess Elena Glinskaya, who expressed gratitude for the birth of her heir — the future Tsar Ivan the Terrible. The convent is shrouded in dark legends. For centuries, women who fell out of favor with the authorities were forcibly tonsured here. The most famous prisoner was Princess Tarakanova, who claimed to be the daughter of the Empress. The monastery complex was created in the 19th century by architect Mikhail Bykovsky, inspired by Florence’s Santa Maria del Fiore cathedral but with Russian architectural elements. The faceted dome is pierced with double windows and crowned with a traditional onion-shaped cupola.

Church of All Saints on Kulishki

The first chronicle mentions date back to 1488. According to legend, Prince Dmitry Donskoy laid the wooden church in 1380 in memory of the victory at Kulikovo Field. The elegant red building that has survived to this day dates from the 16th–17th centuries. The church is unique because its liturgical singing follows the Byzantine canon — an ancient tradition included in UNESCO’s list of intangible cultural heritage.

Lutheran Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul

The history of the building in Starosadsky Lane began in 1817, when the Lutheran parish purchased the Lopukhin estate. A year later, with the support of Emperor Alexander I and funding from the King of Prussia, the estate was rebuilt into a church. Today the cathedral is known as a venue for classical music concerts. Its main treasure is the 1898 Wilhelm Sauer organ, which remains in excellent condition and is regularly played at events.

Architectural Gems

Salt House

The huge light-gray building on Solyanka was constructed in 1915. Six floors and fifteen entrances actually form two large houses connected by courtyards-wells unusual for Moscow. The building stands on the site of the former 17th-century Salt Fish Court. In the 2000s, scenes from a cult film were shot here. Today the ground floor houses restaurants and cafés, while the basements — where salt was stored for centuries — hide secret bars.

Estate of Grigory Yurgenson

A small neo-Gothic building was erected in 1912 in Kolpachny Lane. The elegant mansion is decorated with molded details and masks depicting lion heads and female faces. The building is part of the “Khokhlovka” art cluster.

Morozov Estate

The complex in Bolshoy Tryokhsvyatitelsky Lane is linked to the dynasty of famous industrialists and patrons. The main house belonged to Maria Fyodorovna Morozova, wife of the owner of the Nikolskaya manufactory. Outstanding cultural figures visited the estate: Tretyakov, Chaliapin, Chekhov, Valentin Serov, Korovin. The artist Isaac Levitan had a studio here where he created many masterpieces, including “Above Eternal Peace,” “Golden Autumn,” and “March.”

Public Spaces

Khitrоvskaya Square

The vacant lot appeared after the fire of 1812. In 1822, Major-General Khitrov bought the land, donated it to the city, and proposed building covered markets. The square was landscaped, paved with stone, and fitted with oil lamps. For a long time, Khitrovka was considered a dangerous place with cheap taverns and dosshouses. Writer Vladimir Gilyarovsky described these places in his book “Moscow and Muscovites.” Today the square looks cozy and well-maintained. Former dosshouses in historic buildings now house cafés.

Morozov Garden

A small atmospheric garden in Podkopayevsky Lane was part of the Morozov estate in the 19th century. Ostrovsky, Dostoevsky, Aksakov, and Tolstoy strolled here. The garden is open only during the day; visitors enter through wrought-iron gates and climb a staircase. Shady paths create a feeling of seclusion in the middle of the noisy capital.

Gorka Park

A modern attraction opened in 2017 in Bolshoy Spasoglinishchevsky Lane. The multi-level park was created at the initiative of local residents on the site of an abandoned lot. It features:

• Children’s playgrounds with modern equipment
• Outdoor fitness machines
• A side-slide
• A fountain and gazebo for relaxation
• An observation deck with a view of the synagogue

Cultural Life of the District

Ivanovskaya Gorka attracts not only travelers and Muscovites but also filmmakers. Thanks to its authentic atmosphere, films and TV series are regularly shot here. The district serves as a natural set for works about pre-revolutionary and Soviet Moscow. Modern art spaces, trendy bars, and restaurants have organically blended into the historic fabric. Creative clusters neighbor ancient temples, forming a unique cultural landscape.

Practical Information

How to Get There

The most convenient starting point is the “Kitay-Gorod” metro station. Exit toward Staraya Square and walk along Solyansky Proezd to Solyanka Street. Several bus routes also serve the area:

1. Night routes to the “Metro Kitay-Gorod” stop
2. Express buses connecting the center with residential districts
3. Main city buses running across town

Visiting Tips

Best time for a walk — morning or evening hours when the streets are not crowded with tourists. Spring and autumn are especially picturesque due to the greenery. Duration depends on your interests. A quick look takes 2–3 hours; an in-depth exploration including temples and museums requires a full day. Guided tours help uncover little-known facts and legends. Local guides share fascinating stories about the district’s residents and architectural monuments.

Conclusion

Ivanovskaya Gorka is a living museum of Moscow’s history. Ancient chambers stand next to apartment buildings, Orthodox churches neighbor a Lutheran cathedral and a synagogue, and quiet lanes lead to lively squares. Every building keeps its own story, every lane hides legends. A walk through this amazing district lets you feel the connection of eras and understand what Moscow was and remains — a city where past and present exist in harmony. Visiting Ivanovskaya Gorka is a must for anyone who wants to discover the real capital, to see its intimate rather than ceremonial face, and to experience the atmosphere of Moscow courtyards and lanes immortalized by the classics of Russian literature.