Marfino Estate

The ancient suburban Moscow estate of Marfino is an outstanding architectural monument where classicism, baroque, and neo-Gothic styles are whimsically intertwined. Located just 25 kilometers from the capital on the picturesque bank of the Ucha River, it transports visitors to the atmosphere of the noble era of the 18th–19th centuries. The majestic palace on the hill, reflected in the watery surface of the large pond, seems like a set for a romantic fairy tale.

Location and visiting hours

The estate complex is located in the village of Marfino, Mytishchi district, Moscow region. Currently, the territory belongs to the Marfino Central Military Clinical Sanatorium of the Ministry of Defense of the Russian Federation. Visiting is possible daily from 10:00 to 18:00 upon presentation of a passport or other identity document. Entry to the territory costs 50 rubles; children under three years old have free admission.

How to get to the Marfino estate

By car: follow Dmitrovskoye Highway (A-104) for about 20 km from the MKAD, at the 39th kilometer turn right following the sign “Marfino, Katuar” and after 3 km you will reach the sanatorium entrance. You can leave your car near the bus stop. By public transport:

• From Savyolovsky railway station by suburban train to Katuarka station (travel time about 50 minutes), then by bus No. 37 or No. 73 to the final stop
• From Altufyevo metro station by minibus No. 419, No. 420 or bus No. 519 to the “Marfino” stop (40–45 minutes)

Historical past of the estate

Medieval roots of the estate

The history of the estate complex begins in the 14th century, when boyar Protasiy Fyodorovich Vilyaminov, commander-in-chief of the troops of the Moscow principality, donated a small estate on the bank of the Ucha to the Epiphany Monastery. In the 15th century the village passed to a metropolitan official nicknamed Shchibra, from whom it received the name Shchibrino. In the mid-16th century the estate was acquired by boyar Vasily Pavlovich Golovin, a voivode under Ivan the Terrible. In the following decades the owners changed repeatedly: the estate belonged to Foma Buturlin, state secretary Vasily Shchelkalov, the Golovin family, state secretary Zaborovsky.

Legends about the origin of the name

There are several versions of how the modern name of the estate appeared:

• Legend connects it with the tragic fate of Marfa, daughter of Prince Boris Golitsyn, who drowned together with her two little daughters on the Volga near Astrakhan while returning from a journey
• Historians point out that 17th-century land registry books already mention the name Marfino before these events, and Golitsyn’s wife was Maria Fyodorovna Khvorostinina, not Marfa
• A third version suggests that the settlement was named after the evangelical saint Martha, who became the patroness of these lands

The heyday under the Golitsyns and Saltykovs

From 1698 the owner became Prince Boris Alekseyevich Golitsyn, who completely rebuilt the estate according to European fashion. A French park was laid out, a new manor house and a stone Church of the Nativity of the Virgin were erected; its construction was completed in 1707 by the project of serf architect Vladimir Ivanovich Belozerov. From 1729 the owner of the village became the future field marshal Pyotr Semyonovich Saltykov, under whom the estate experienced its greatest heyday. A two-storey stone palace with wings, a menagerie, and greenhouses with exotic plants — peaches, oranges, lemons and plums — were built. Under his son Ivan Petrovich Saltykov, many buildings in the classicist style appeared on the estate. The count staged famous amateur theatrical performances to which all Moscow nobility came. The regular park, resembling a ceremonial hall, was decorated with marble sculptures, pavilions, grottoes and gazebos. Legends were made about the Marfino hound hunts — up to a thousand dogs were kept in two kennels resembling ancient temples, cared for by 60 huntsmen.

Revival after the war of 1812

The Patriotic War of 1812 brought devastation to the estate — the French burned and looted it. The new owner Vladimir Grigoryevich Orlov began restoration work but died without seeing it completed. Countess Sofia Panina, the first female minister in the Russian government, in the 1830s commissioned Moscow architect Mikhail Dmitrievich Bykovsky to carry out a large-scale reconstruction. It was Bykovsky who gave the estate complex the pseudo-Gothic appearance that delights visitors today. He rebuilt the main house, created entrance gates with guard towers, erected the famous Gothic bridge across the pond and restored the facades of the Church of Peter and Paul with Renaissance elements.

20th century and the present

After the 1917 revolution the estate was nationalised. Students of the agricultural academy did practical training here, from 1919 to 1923 there was a children’s colony for juvenile offenders, then a health resort. Before the Great Patriotic War the estate was transferred to the military rest home “Red Pilot”. During the war years a hospital functioned here, and in 1944 a sanatorium for the rehabilitation of military personnel was opened. In 1990 modern sanatorium buildings were constructed on the territory, and by 2009 a comprehensive restoration of the historical buildings was carried out, returning them to their original appearance.

Architectural sights of the estate complex

Main palace

The central part of the estate is occupied by a majestic two-storey brick palace built on a hill in the 1760–1780s and radically reconstructed in the 1830s. The building resembles a medieval castle thanks to the pseudo-Gothic style given to it by architect Bykovsky. The palace contained 24 rooms with a large collection of paintings and a library of several thousand volumes. The snow-white facade decoration effectively contrasts with the red brick. The water surface of the large pond in front of the palace visually expands the space and creates a stunning reflection effect. Currently the building serves as a corps of the military sanatorium; entry inside is impossible, but the external view leaves an unforgettable impression.

Church of the Nativity of the Most Holy Theotokos

The summer Church of the Nativity of the Virgin is the oldest building of the estate, erected in 1701–1707. The church is distinguished by its slender proportions and a style of early baroque rare for Russia. Serf architect Vladimir Ivanovich Belozerov, who studied in France, created a unique work combining European trends with Russian architectural traditions. The church stands on a basement; large bricks with white stone facing were used for construction. According to legend, Belozerov dreamed of the church collapsing, after which, with the princess’s permission, he installed four monumental pylons to support the light drum. Prince Golitsyn believed the pylons reduced the interior space and ordered the architect to be flogged. The 59-year-old architect died from the beating in 1708; his gravestone has been preserved not far from the church.

Church of Peter and Paul

The functioning winter Church of the Apostles Peter and Paul was built under Field Marshal Pyotr Saltykov in the 1770s. The church is executed in the classicist style and belongs to the rare type of churches “under the bells”. In the 1830s architect Bykovsky restored the facades using Renaissance elements. The church was closed in 1937; services resumed only in 1990. Together with the Church of the Nativity of the Virgin it forms a picturesque architectural ensemble on the bank of the Bezymyanny ravine.

Gothic bridge across the pond

The calling card of the estate is the figured bridge across the Ucha River connecting the banks of the pond. Originally erected in the 1770s under the Saltykovs, it was completely rebuilt in the Gothic style in 1837–1839 by the design of Mikhail Bykovsky and became the ceremonial entrance to the estate complex. The bridge consists of a central part and two side arched spans. The central section is a solid brick wall crowned by a gallery of twenty white-stone octagonal columns. On both sides of the gallery rise rectangular turrets with arched entrances decorated with elegant twisted columns and lace-like sculptural decor. Above the inner entrance is a shield with a Maltese cross. The turrets, crenellated ridges and embrasures give the structure the appearance of a fortress fortification. Unfortunately, the bridge is gradually deteriorating and is currently closed to passage on one side.

Landing stage with fountain and griffins

A ceremonial white-stone staircase leads from the main palace to the landing stage. The octagonal platform of the landing stage is paved with white-stone slabs and surrounded by a cast-iron fence bearing the monogram “S” — the initial letter of Countess Sofia Panina’s name. The central decoration of the landing stage is a fountain in the form of a cast-iron shell bowl held by chubby infants and dolphins. Presumably, the author of this mid-19th-century composition is the famous sculptor of Italian origin Ivan Petrovich Vitali. At the descent to the water there are 18th-century stone sculptures of griffins — a favourite photo spot for tourists.

Entrance gates

The entrance gates with the surviving watchtower were built by architect Bykovsky in the mid-19th century simultaneously with the rebuilding of the main house. Originally two pseudo-Gothic guard towers stood beside the gates, but only one has survived to the present day.

Gazebos of the regular park

Two elegant 18th-century gazebos are located in the estate park: Music pavilion — a semicircular structure with a Tuscan colonnade of white stone and a semi-domed vault. Musical evenings for estate guests were held in the pavilion. “Milovida” gazebo — a two-tier rotunda situated on a high slope at the descent to the large lower pond. It offers a magnificent view of the surroundings, which is reflected in the name of the structure. The gazebo is designed as a round building crowned by a dome. On the second tier stands a statue of the Belvedere Apollo, which was originally planned to be placed in the park but in the 1950s was moved to the rotunda for preservation. The author of the building is believed to be the famous architect Nikolai Alexandrovich Lvov.

Kennels

Two kennel buildings constructed in the 18th century under the Saltykovs in the classical style outwardly resemble ancient temples. Count Pyotr Semyonovich Saltykov was a passionate hunter, and up to a thousand hunting dogs were kept in these buildings, cared for by 60 huntsmen.

Stables and carriage shed

Only a wall and two gateway towers with neo-Gothic elements remain from the 18th-century stables built in the classicist style. The red-brick carriage shed is decorated with white-stone details that harmonise with the decor of the palace and stables. The size of these buildings gives an idea of the scale of receptions at the estate and the number of guests who came to Marfino. Unfortunately, both structures are gradually falling into ruin and require restoration.

Estate park

The regular park of the Marfino estate is a well-kept green area with alleys and flower beds. The paths are framed by centuries-old linden trees planted more than 200 years ago. The Saltykovs’ gardeners created geometric figures — pyramids, spheres and green walls — from trees and shrubs, turning the park into something resembling a ceremonial hall. Among the vegetation there are rare specimens: Siberian larches with trunk diameters up to one metre, thuja, spruce, white poplars, maples. The larch alley leading to the churches has preserved two-hundred-year-old trees. At the centre of the park composition is the Lower Pond, around which the main architectural sights are concentrated. The water surface of the pond reflects the palace and creates a unique atmosphere of romance. Marble sculptures, pavilions and gazebos adorn the green alleys.

Marfino in cinema

The romantic atmosphere of the estate has attracted the attention of filmmakers. Iconic Soviet and Russian films were shot here:

• “A Nest of the Gentry” based on the novel by Ivan Turgenev
• “The Master and Margarita” (1994) — the scene of Satan’s ball
• “Svoi sredi chuzhikh, chuzhoi sredi svoikh” (“Friend Among Foes, Foe Among Friends”)
• “Krestonosets” and “Krestonostsy”
• “A Glass of Water”
• “The Woman Who Sings”
• “Poisons, or the World History of Poisoning”

The pseudo-Gothic appearance of the estate is ideal for historical films and creates an atmosphere of mystery and mysticism.

Practical information for visitors

Address: 141052, Russia, Moscow region, Mytishchi district, village of Marfino Sanatorium phone: +7 (495) 577-83-69 (you can check the possibility of visiting) Opening hours: daily from 10:00 to 18:00 Entrance fee: 50 rubles, children under 3 years — free (data as of November 2023) Required documents: passport or other identity document for each visitor. A one-time pass is issued at the sanatorium commandant’s office, after which you can pass through the checkpoint to the estate territory. Important to know: the main palace is a building of the military sanatorium; entry inside is impossible, only external viewing is available. The Gothic bridge is partially closed to passage due to deterioration.

What makes the Marfino estate attractive

The Marfino estate complex is a unique combination of architectural styles and picturesque nature. A cultural heritage site of federal significance allows one to feel the atmosphere of Russian noble life of the 18th–19th centuries. The majestic palace, ancient churches, romantic gazebos, Gothic bridge and centuries-old trees create a sensation of time travel. Having travelled only 25 kilometres from the capital metropolis, visitors find themselves in a world of romantic fairy tale full of mysteries and historical secrets. The reflection of the snow-white palace in the mirror of the pond, larch alleys, griffin sculptures on the landing stage, majestic temples — all this makes Marfino one of the most attractive and romantic places in the Moscow region. The estate is beautiful at any time of year: in spring it delights with blooming gardens, in summer with the greenery of parks and the coolness of ponds, in autumn with golden foliage, in winter with the fairy-tale snow-covered appearance of a Gothic castle. It is an ideal place for lovers of history, architecture, nature and everyone who wants to immerse themselves for a few hours in the atmosphere of bygone eras.