Petrovsky Traveling Palace

Amid the modern skyscrapers and glass facades of Moscow, the Petrovsky Traveling Palace looks like a true fairy tale from the past. Red brick walls, Gothic towers, and carved domes transport visitors to the era of Russian emperors. This 18th-century architectural masterpiece witnessed royal coronations, hosted Napoleon, and later educated future cosmonauts. Today, the palace combines the functions of a museum, a luxury hotel, and a government residence, remaining one of Moscow’s most mysterious landmarks.

History of the Traveling Palace

The Vision of Catherine the Great

Construction of the palace began in 1776 by personal order of Empress Catherine II. Russia’s victory in the Russo-Turkish War inspired the empress to create a majestic residence at the entrance to Moscow from Saint Petersburg. The journey between the two capitals took about two weeks, so the imperial entourage needed comfortable stops for rest. Catherine chose a site on Khodynka Field, where architects Vasily Bazhenov and Matvey Kazakov had built festive pavilions to celebrate the victory over the Turks. The empress was so impressed by their work that she ordered a permanent residence to be built in a similar style. The project was entrusted to the talented architect Matvey Kazakov, who spent seven years bringing the grand vision to life.

Name and Purpose

The palace received its name not in honor of Peter I, as many think, but from the Vysoko-Petrovsky Monastery, which owned the land. It was called “traveling” because of its function — emperors stopped here before their ceremonial entry into Moscow. Although such residences were often called “palaces for one night,” the architect provided everything needed for extended stays: quarters for the retinue, stables, and service buildings. Catherine II herself visited the palace twice: she stayed four days in 1785 and ten days in 1787. During the second visit, the empress dismissed her guards to show trust in her people. Grateful subjects kept watch outside her windows all night, guarding their sovereign’s rest.

The Palace’s Fate in the 19th Century

The Last Step to the Throne

Under Paul I, a tradition arose that turned the stop at Petrovsky Palace into an obligatory ceremony before coronation. Every future emperor spent the last night here before ascending the throne, preparing for the Kremlin festivities. After the coronation, the palace hosted lavish balls for the guests. It even earned the informal name “the last step to the throne.”

Napoleon’s Invasion

In September 1812, the palace received an unexpected guest — Napoleon Bonaparte and his guard, who stayed for nearly a week. According to legend, the French emperor watched the burning of Moscow from here. Paradoxically, the palace itself was hardly damaged by the invaders. However, after their retreat, peasants from nearby villages thoroughly looted the abandoned chambers.

Restoration and New Trials

In 1830, the building was temporarily converted into a quarantine hospital for cholera patients. Soon afterward, large-scale restoration began based on Kazakov’s original designs with some innovations: columns were added to the main hall, and the corridors were decorated with compositions of old armor. The restorers planned to add Gothic elements to the facades but ultimately preserved the building’s original appearance. The coronation of Nicholas II in 1896 became a tragic chapter in the palace’s history. Hundreds of thousands lined up from what is now Belorussky Station to catch a glimpse of the future emperor. The celebrations were overshadowed by the horrific Khodynka Field stampede opposite the palace: about 1,500 people died during the distribution of gifts. Despite the tragedy, festivities in the palace continued, provoking public outrage. Many saw the event as a bad omen — Nicholas II indeed became Russia’s last emperor.

The 20th Century: From Hospital to Aviation Academy

Revolutionary Turmoil

During World War I, the palace was converted into a military hospital, with tram tracks laid for quick transport of the wounded. After the 1917–1918 Revolution, the building was nationalized and severely damaged: machine-gun detachments occupied parts of it, walls were destroyed, and the first floor turned into a canteen. The palace passed from one department to another under various commissariats. Preserving the historical appearance was not a priority — the main goal was simply to keep the building operational.

The Air Force Academy

The palace was saved from total ruin when authorities transferred it to the Zhukovsky Air Force Academy in the early 1920s. The buildings were converted into classrooms where future pilots and engineers trained. Among the academy’s most famous students was Yuri Gagarin, who enrolled after his historic spaceflight. Other notable graduates included cosmonauts German Titov, Alexei Leonov, and Valentina Tereshkova. To meet the academy’s needs, the palace underwent major reconstruction: floors were replaced, and a ventilation system was installed. However, the historic layout was carefully preserved. In the main domed hall, an enormous airship was even suspended — a striking symbol of the palace’s new aviation role.

The Palace Today

In the late 1990s, the Petrovsky Traveling Palace was transferred to the Moscow city government. A grand restoration began, lasting over ten years. Today, the palace serves representative purposes as the Reception House of the Moscow Government, hosting official meetings, conferences, concerts, and ceremonies. Within the complex operates a boutique hotel, where guests can stay in rooms ranging from standard to luxurious suites. The interiors combine historical splendor with modern comfort, all styled in elegant Empire fashion. A museum with guided tours of the ceremonial halls is also open, allowing visitors to see reconstructed interiors and antique furniture. Wedding ceremonies in imperial settings are even held on the grounds.

Architectural Features

The Genius of Matvey Kazakov

The palace’s creator, Matvey Kazakov, had never been abroad and was not directly influenced by European schools. All the more remarkable was his ability to merge multiple architectural traditions in one project. The palace combined Russian architecture with Western elements, though some decorative work was done by the Austrian craftsman Johann Just.

A Blend of Styles

The complex’s architecture incorporates features from several traditions:

• Motifs of German Gothic with crenellated towers and pointed arches, reflecting Catherine II’s heritage
• A dome modeled after the Hagia Sophia in Constantinople — a reminder of the Russo-Turkish victory and allusion to dreams of taking Constantinople
• Pre-Petrine Russian elements: jug-shaped porch columns and half-columns at the building’s corners
• Side wings with turrets and gates creating the impression of a fortress wall

The red brick walls with white ornamentation and multi-pointed Moravian stars on the domes give the palace a fairy-tale appearance. These stars symbolize the Bethlehem Star, though their exact origin here remains a mystery.

Luxurious Interiors

Guests first enter the spacious Column Hall with a gallery decorated with busts of Russian emperors. The grand staircase with marble steps, covered by a green carpet, leads to the second floor. The walls are painted in soft white and mint tones. The main jewel is the Domed Hall on the second floor, rising 16 meters from floor to dome peak. The dome is painted in the grisaille technique, known since the Italian Renaissance. The monochrome murals create an illusion of three-dimensional sculptural reliefs. The walls are adorned with stucco featuring double-headed eagles — symbols of the Russian Empire. Remarkably, these decorations survived even the Soviet period. The antique mirrors are mounted unusually high — they were placed this way to reflect candlelight and enhance illumination. Parquet floors appeared only during Nicholas I’s reign — before that, the nobility walked on plain wooden planks.

Interesting Facts and Legends

• Legendary treasure: according to legend, False Dmitry II buried his treasure near the palace during his flight
• A writer in the palace: in the early 1920s, Mikhail Bulgakov managed the publishing section of the Air Force Academy located here
• Khodynka airfield: since 1910, the first Russian airfield operated near the palace, where Yuri Gagarin trained in piloting
• Complex area: the total area is 17,060 square meters, including 6,785 square meters underground
• Moscow’s “dacha Rublyovka”: in the 19th century, the palace’s surroundings were an elite district where only the wealthy built their summer houses

How to Visit

Address and Transport

The Petrovsky Traveling Palace is located at: Moscow, Leningradsky Prospekt, Estate 40. The easiest way to get there is by metro — to “Dinamo” (Zamoskvoretskaya Line) or “Petrovsky Park” (Big Circle Line). From both stations, it’s a 7–10 minute walk through Petrovsky Park. For drivers, there is an underground parking lot: free for hotel guests, paid for museum visitors.

Tours and Tickets

Access to the palace is only by organized guided tour, which must be booked in advance. Tickets are available on the Moscow Museum Excursion Bureau website with date, time, and visitor details required for entry. Tours run Tuesday to Sunday; Monday is a day off. Tour prices:

• Weekdays: 850 RUB (full ticket), 650 RUB (discounted)
• Weekends: 1000 RUB
• Photography: additional 150 RUB

The tour lasts about 1.5 hours and includes visits to all five ceremonial halls, exploring the history and architecture of the palace. Visitors can see a model of the palace, the royal family’s antique chess set, the grisaille-painted domed hall, and more.

Practical Tips

• Arrive 10–15 minutes early — latecomers may not be admitted
• Wear comfortable shoes with low heels — the parquet floors are slippery
• You may need to present your passport at the entrance
• After the tour, you can visit the “Karamzin” restaurant or buy souvenirs
• If you plan to stay at the hotel, book in advance — there are only 43 rooms

Nearby Attractions

Petrovsky Park

About 55 hectares of the original park area remain. In the 19th century, it was a true “Moscow Rublyovka,” where wealthy gentlemen built luxurious summer villas. The famous “Yar” restaurant was located here, frequented by lawyer Plevako, Felix Yusupov, and other notable figures. In Soviet times, the “Dinamo” stadium was built on the park grounds.

Annunciation Church

The church was built in the early 19th century by noblewoman Anna Dmitrievna Naryshkina in memory of her deceased relatives. The church’s architecture was designed to match the Petrovsky Palace — red brick walls with ornate decoration. In 2018, a monument to the victims of the executions that took place in Petrovsky Park after the Revolution was erected here.

“Black Swan” Villa

This mansion belonged to philanthropist Nikolai Ryabushinsky from a famous Old Believer family. He founded the literary society “The Golden Fleece,” which united poets Bely, Gippius, Balmont, Voloshin, and Sologub. The villa’s emblem — a black swan in an oval — appeared everywhere, from the facade to the tableware.

Conclusion

The Petrovsky Traveling Palace is a unique place where history comes alive in every hall and architectural detail. Here, one can feel the atmosphere of imperial receptions, hear echoes of historic events, and admire Kazakov’s architectural genius. The combination of a museum, luxury hotel, and government residence makes the palace a must-visit destination for anyone interested in Moscow’s rich heritage. It remains one of the city’s most underrated attractions, deserving attention from travelers across the country.